Summer Cruise 2024 – part one
Saturday 18th to Tuesday 21st May
Day 1 Shieldaig to Cuaig (21km)
Six paddlers gathered at Shieldaig on a dull and breezy Saturday for the start of the first part of the Club’s Summer Cruise from Shieldaig to Loch Carron. As it was around 1pm, the group made a quick lunch stop at Camas Ruadh before setting off into a stiff wind across the mouth of Upper Loch Torridon and along the north shore of Loch Torridon before crossing to the south shore from Araid. The aim was to camp for the night at Fearnmore just south of Rubha na Fearn. However no suitable campsite was found and as the wind had dropped and the sea had turned to flat calm it was decided to round the point and camp at Cuaig. Just before rounding the point they were lucky enough to get a close up view of a couple of hunting otters. Tired after a long day the group soon had their tents pitched, dinner eaten and settled down for a well-earned sleep!
Day 2 Cuaig to Uags (28km)
Having packed up wet tents (there was mizzle in the night!) the group set off south from Cuaig pushed along by a gentle north wind. They stopped to have a look at the row of ruined cottages at Lonbain (from the gaelic An lon Ban…white damp meadow). These had been “tarted up” for the filming of the 1983 production “Ill fares the Land” about the last days of habitation on St Kilda. One of the cottages is in the process of being fully restored including a rethatch. After a break to admire the huge beach at Sand they stopped at Applecross for ice cream before setting off towards Uags (from Uamhag meaning Hollow). On this stretch the northerly wind had picked up which made for tricky paddling, but the group was soon paddling into Uags bay where there is great camping and an MBA (Mountain Bothy Association) bothy which they could use to cook and escape the weather and/or the midge! Tents were soon pitched and dinner was eaten alfresco with the sun setting behind the Cuillins to the west while plans were laid for a paddle to the Crowlin islands the following day.
Day 3 The Crowlin Islands (16km)
The Crowlins which lie 2km west of Uags are made up of three islands – Eilean Beag (Small Island), Eilean Meadhonach (Middle Island) and Eilean Mor (Big Island). A narrow channel of sea runs between Middle and Big Islands which is only navigable around high tide. The paddlers stopped at the south entry to the channel and walked to where they could see the water coming from the north end before having a snack and returning to the water. Paddling up the west coast of Eilean Meadhonach they admired the twisted red rock layers in the cliffs and pondered on the geology. After lunch the group paddled into the north end of the channel to see how far they could get. The tide was coming in fast and they managed to carefully navigate the kayaks all the way through. Returning to Uags dead wood was gathered from the oak woods behind the bothy and after another midge free dinner eaten outside the group retired to the bothy, lit the fire and enjoyed the craic!
Day 4 Uags to Loch Carron (23km)Day four dawned calm and sunny and the paddlers were up and about early to break camp, say farewell to Uags and set off on the last leg of their journey. The plan was to lunch at the Kishorn Islands before passing through the narrows at the entrance to Loch carron at slack tide. Views soon opened up of the Skye Bridge and Plockton on their right and a sea eagle was spotted in the oak woods west of the deserted settlememt at Airigh Drishaig. As they set off across to the Kishorn Islands a huge oil platform hove into view at the mouth of Loch Kishorn. This turned out to be Diamond Drilling’s Ocean GreatWhite rig whose drilling equipment collapsed during a storm in early February. After a leisurely lunch on the shore behind the islands the group set off towards the entrance to Loch Carron. Here the landscape became more populated with small clutches of whitewashed homes at Ardaneaskin, Leacanashie, Stromemore and Strome Ferry (no ferry!). The ruins of Strome Castle could be seen perched strategically on a rock overlooking the narrows guarding the entrance to Loch Carron which reaches deep into the interior. The castle was built in the early 1400s by Alexander Macdonald, Lord of the Isles. After the battle of Morar (who knew??) in 1602 ownership of the castle was disputed between the Clan Mackenzie and the Clan MacDonell and was eventually demolished and blown up. Five kilometres into the loch the group landed at their takeout in the village of Loch Carron. After running a shuttle to pick up the cars left at Shieldaig, four of the group set off for Broadford in Skye for Part 2 of the Summer Cruise. Did they enjoy the same amazing weather and paddling conditions? Wait and see!
Paddlers: Mike, Kirsty, Iain, Petra, Peter S and Joan.
