Sat 27 April - Loch Ailort

The first trip of the new season’s calendar started at the jetty just along the road from the sadly dilapidated Inverailort Castle. Launching onto a calm sea under a bright sky, we paddled down the loch and past Eilean Dubh, the islands here busy with bird life: Canada and Greylag geese, Oystercatchers, Eiders and a single Great Northern Diver.  After an hour or so we came ashore for a break NW of Peanmeanach, in front of the ruins of Glasnacardoch. Despite the lack of wind, the sandy beach had a wee bit of surf and sponges were soon in action drying out cockpits. The surf was coming from swell that we next encountered paddling alongside the inner coasts of E. a’ Chaolais and E. Nan Gobhar before turning back up the loch.  We found a bit more surf as we landed on a beach on the N side of Coopers Knowe for lunch, a meal over which we did not linger owing to the chilly NW wind. The final leg back gave us wonderful views of this beautiful area, enhanced by the fresh greenery on the trees and the hills just starting to follow suit.

Paddlers: Joan, Sheila, Peter, Elizabeth & Tony. 17km

2 May -Evening Paddle - Arisaig Bay

3/5 May - Ulva and Gometra

As the weekend approached and the forecast remained resolutely windy, especially on the Friday, the plan was modified to avoid paddling directly into a F5 gusting 6 to Inch Kenneth and across to Traigh Bhan on Friday afternoon. Instead the group convened at the basic but pleasant campsite at Killiechronan, with bluebell-strewn woods,  at the head of Loch na  Keal, where the promised sea eagles soon revealed themselves (in the distance) and a convivial evening of games and chat ensued in the comfort of a cosy camper van. The night was chilly and noisy with very vocal birds. Morning revealed white frost on the tents and grass, and a still, calm loch. Heading off as early as possible to Ulva ferry, with a few people having decided against paddling due to the forecast, five paddlers launched from Ulva ferry landing and headed south with the wind freshening but from behind.  Turning west along the south coast of Ulva the seas were, as hoped for, calm and pleasant and we proceeded along past the impressive basalt columns towards our destination of Traigh Bhan, keeping fairly close to the shore and tucking in amongst the islands. Another group of paddlers were also checking out accommodation but soon we settled in neighbouring bays and had lunch and set up camp. By this time the wind was fairly fresh so we collected firewood and debated on the next move. A proposal to go and check out the ruined village of Craigaig, with its old watermill, was embraced by all and proved an interesting and pleasant visit (as well as boosting the bonfire fund). The wind being brisk but not formidable it was then decided to go ahead with our plan to get through the channel between Ulva and Gometra.  A highlight on the journey was seeing a huge nest on the cliffs - presumably belonging to an eagle. High water (Springs) was at 18:40 and we arrived at the narrows shortly before and were excited to be able to get through the bridge and look out to the north, which appeared pretty windy. A short break was taken to refuel , but the evening chill meant we didn’t tarry long. After having a bit of a slog to get there the return journey went by in a flash of most enjoyable conditions and soon all were convened around the campfire. Distance 23kms

A peaceful and calm night was followed by an early shower.  The forecast was still set to be F4 gusting 5 from the N/NW.  After a brief conflab it was decided to go for Inch Kenneth and damn the torpedoes. On the water by 9.15 the following wind took us swiftly, if a little uncomfortably, to Inch Kenneth. The seas were hitting the island and the prospect of turning SW along the shore with a breaching sea was not very enticing, so a portage across the waist of the island was undertaken, to the calm waters on the southern side. After a refuelling break the graveyard and church were explored and a visit to the old Mitford House brought us together with the caretakers and their attractive pets (dog and cat), which proved interesting.  Not wanting to tarry long, due to the uncertainty of the northward journey back to Ulva ferry and forecast of strengthening winds, we soon set off, rounding the end of the island into the teeth of a brisk, but not unmanageable breeze that increased in lumpiness once out of the protection of the islands. The crossing was made in good time and the Ulva shore was followed round into the Sound and back to Ulva ferry and a welcome cuppa in the camper van. Distance 13kms
All in all a good weekend with good company, good baking and good whisky!

Paddlers:  Joan, Ruth, Iain, Peter, Sheila

May 19 - Plockton to Kyle of Lochalsh

This paddle coincided with the start of the midge season which was unfortunate for those camping but meant that the sea was absolutely flat for most of the trip. Our group of five left Plockton bay, paddled round the lighthouse at Eilean a’ Chait and stopped for refreshments at Camas Dubh-aird. The low cloud lifted as we continued along the coast with views to Applecross, Raasay and Skye. We stopped again at a coral beach on the Black Islands where an unusual starfish (Luidia ciliaris?) was photographed by Peter. Approaching the Skye bridge we encountered some tidal movement even though it was slack water and we finished at a rather oily ferry slipway in Kyle. Distance paddled 16km.

Paddlers : Joan Smith, Roger Lanyon, Peter Sugden, Graham Donnelly and Bill Scott.

May 22 - evening paddle

Paddlers - Christine Ewers, Christoph Ewers, Anthony Titley, Mike Kingswood, Roger Lanyon, Steve Hudson, Kirsty Bloomers Total distance 7.63km

June 5th - evening paddle

Paddlers - Peter Sugden, Joan Smith, Mike Kingswood, Roger Lanyon, Chris Smail, Diana Denney, Kirsty Bloom, Steve Hudsoners Total distance 9.2km

14-16 June - Torridon (not Wick!)

Due to a forecast of strong winds and swell, the planned trip to the north east coast was changed to Torridon. Unbeknown to the four members who had signed up for the trip the Celtman ultimate Triathlon was also taking place at Torridon on the same weekend. So when they gathered at the Council run campsite at Torridon on Friday afternoon they found the small area awash with cars, campervans and serious looking athletes with their support crews! However, enough tent space was found, and they foregathered in the party tent to plan the next two day paddles.

On Saturday morning the group had shrunk to three due to one member having taken unwell, but quickly became four again when joined by a late comer. They set off from Shieldaig and headed past Shieldaig Island which is covered with mature Scots Pines grown from seeds brought from Speyside to supply timber for building ships for the Napoleonic wars. Having rounded the peninsula north of Shieldaig, they caught a glimpse of the ancestral home of Roger Lanyon’s Grandfather (Johnny MacKay) at Bad Callda. From there they crossed the tidal flow at the narrows separating Loch Torridon from Upper Loch Torridon and headed to the sheltered harbour of Loch Diabaig hoping to get a cup of coffee at the famous Gille Grighde (oyster catcher). However, the café was shut, and the rain had set in, so lunch was taken sheltering behind a building on the old walled jetty watching climbers scaling the great gneiss slab south of the village. Refreshed after lunch the group made the short crossing to the Aird peninsula and after a quick peek into Loch Beag, they paddled south back towards Shieldaig, catching sight of a lone porpoise on the way. On passing Shieldaig Island the group spotted the resident sea eagle atop one of the Scots Pines. After having a cup of tea at the wonderful Nanny’s Café in Shieldaig the group set off for the campsite. By this time the triathletes were starting to arrive at the finishing line having set off on the swim section at 5am!

Saturday Paddlers: Roger Lanyon, Margie Hemingway, Joan Smith, Sheila Kingswood. Distance paddled - 21kms

26th June - Evening Paddle Loch Ailort

3 July - evening paddle

6/7 July - Ascrib Islands

Following the usual few days of uncertainty about the weather, the trip went ahead with just 4 paddlers - 3 paddlers down for one reason and another.  Greshornish campsite (very neat and tidy with good facilities and rocky access to the loch) was wet and misty on arrival on the Friday afternoon but soon began to clear. The camper’s room offered shelter from the midgies for cooking and eating dinner.

Saturday dawned dry and pretty calm. Leaving a car at the campsite the group arrived at Stein to find 7 members of the Stonehaven Club loading boats, also bound for the Ascribs, but planning a slightly different route. After boat loading and friendly chat, both groups set off around 10:15. Going north was paddling into the wind and against the tide so was relatively slow, but not arduous. The group headed up the coast towards Ardmore Point and within 15 minutes  Mrs. Eagle-eyes spotted a sea eagle beside us on the shore, which followed alongside for a distance before flying east.

Trumpan, in Ardmore Bay, was the scene of a grisly clan reprisal by the MacDonalds of Clanranald in 1578 for the cave massacre on Eigg. Sailing across from North Uist the MacDonalds trapped the worhsipping  MacLeods in Cille Chonain (St. Conan’s  church) and set fire to it, killing all apart from a girl who escaped  and alerted the chief at Dunvegan, who sent out a warring party to the church. A terrible battle ensued, and one version of the story says that the MacLeods unfurled the clan's magical Fairy Flag (the Chief of the MacLeods was given the fairy flag for protection before his fairy wife left him forever and returned to her people) and their numbers were instantly doubled. This was the second unveiling of the Fairy Flag, which can only be used three times before losing its power. The MacDonalds tried to retreat to their boats on the shore, only to find they had been stranded by the incoming tide. The invaders were slaughtered, though a single galley escaped and carried the tale of the massacre to Uist.

A further tale of Trumpan will be of interest to those who have visited St. Kilda and know the tale of Lady Grange, whose husband imprisoned her on a series of remote islands for 13 years – St. Kilda and the Monach Islands among  them.  She died in captivity at Trumpan in 1742 and was buried in the churchyard there.

After a fine pair of arches, the stretch of coast north of Ardmore became high-ish cliffs with rocky, inhospitable foreshore and a series of waterfalls and dykes, one of which afforded a stony beach landing for lunch before rounding Waternish Point once the tidal stream changed direction. Although only a day after Springs the turbulence at the headland was bumpy but quite manageable.  From here the Shiant Islands are clearly visible, along with Harris and Lewis. Despite the stream having just changed direction, it could be clearly seen flowing strongly like a river towards the north of the Ascrib Islands, which soon came into view. Choosing to avoid the turbulence, the coastal route was take south for a few kilometres before heading for Eilean Iosal, the most northerly of the Ascribs. A few hundred metres short of the island a minke whale came to check out the intruders and performed a few acrobatics, soon followed by a second one.  Approaching the island the Atlantic Grey seals could be heard singing (to us!) from the shore and soon followed along behind, huffing and puffing. The next attraction was the puffin colony on the neighbouring Eilean Creagach. A healthy population, along with razorbills, gannets etc.  After hanging out with the birds for a while, the exploration continued through the gap to the eastern side of Eilean Garave. The kelp beds along these coasts are dense and healthy looking. Missing the gap (perhaps inaccessible due to low tide) South Ascrib had to be circumnavigated to reach the house where it is suggested rough camping spots may be found. Dragging the boats to the raggy jetty and clambering up, it was observed that the door to the house was open.  A representative was commissioned to go and meet the owners to see if camping might be possible. The answer was an unequivocal “no”. There being no camping on the for at least 6kms it was reluctantly conceded that the group could look for somewhere nearby, with the promise of a (non-existent) jetty and flat (hah!!) ground.  After an extended and thorough reccie of the most difficult to negotiate terrain imaginable, sufficient space was found close to the top of the “beach” on tiny little patches of wild land full of holes and water. At low water the top of the beach was 100 meters or so of rough, sea-weedy boulders away. A council was held - there was nothing for it so, an evening of carrying and dragging commenced. Medicinal whisky was prescribed and by the time the boats were safely on the grass it was lucky there had been no injuries! After dinner one of the group found his tent to be on a separate part of the island (the tide having come in from both sides) and had to wade home. The camp spots turned out to be very comfy and there was a nice sunset to end the day, with the Stonehaven Club visible on the horizon on a neighbouring bit of island and Fladda Chuain, Eilean Trodday  and Dunvegan Head silhouetted in shades of grey towards the east.

26 plus kms

Sunday dawned blue and flat calm, though throughout the day any number of different conditions were experienced. The house, built by Lord Palumbo in 1985, looked fine in the morning sun. It was decided to pay another visit to the puffins, so headed north again to Eilean Creagach.  Once puffined-out (if that’s possible), and with the seals singing us away,  a westerly diagonal was taken from Eilean Garave towards Loch Losait, where 1st. lunch was taken. Various splashes in the water and sightings of smaller fins were probably porpoises, but they were too distant to be certain. Travelling south down the coast, the Ascribs soon looked far away.  A waterfall, visible from the islands, was a long way south and quite spectacular. There were a couple of rock slides from the surprisingly high, steep and rugged cliffs along this coast, apparently made up of “Jurassic sedimentary rocks .... capped by large thicknesses of Lower Tertiary plateau lavas and pyroclastic rocks”. A few basalt columns were also visible.
The final excitement of the journey was to be the fancy graves at the head of loch Diubaig. The section of coast approaching the loch has a number of small caves and passages but none that were readily navigable. Landing at the far end of the loch second lunch was taken, followed by a search for the graves. Not finding them, a search was made of the bay at the foot of the path leading to the Greshornish Hotel, but was also unsuccessful. It seems the search of the head of the loch had missed finding them by a gnat’s breath – so, another trip is required!
The journey ended with a paddle up Loch Greshornish to the campsite at the head, followed by showers and collecting the cars.  As it was already 5p.m. there was no time for pubbing as one of the group had a long drive home. A very successful and enjoyable weekend with plenty of variety (and hard work!!). 

24.5kms.

Paddlers: Joan Smith, Iain Donnelly, Peter Sugden, Sheila Kingswood

12 – 14 July Mallaig – Loch Nevis

The forecast was good for the Loch Nevis trip and our group of four set off from Mallaig with a following wind. First stop was Eilean Giubhais for lunch then we headed up the loch past Moby, the whale shaped boat at Ardentigh Outdoor Centre, reaching the narrows just before the tide turned. We stopped at Kylesknoydart for second lunch and saw three porpoises coming through and an otter. Then on to the end of the loch to our campsite and off the water before the tide went out too far.
On Saturday low cloud on the tops meant that we did not climb our intended hill, Sgurr na Ciche, however we had an enjoyable walk past Sourlies bothy and up the well engineered path to Lochan a’ Mhaim. Back at the campsite we opted to stay another night as the wind blowing up the loch was not inviting.
Sunday morning was calm and clear and we had some early morning visitors - deer breakfasting around the tents. We packed up quickly to make the most of the outgoing tide, passing the ruined houses at Ardnamurach and stopping at Tarbet. The wind picked up and was against us as we crossed the loch and headed for Inverie, unfortunately the cafe was closed and lunch was eaten on the beach. Finally back across the loch and home to Mallaig, a great trip into an amazing remote spot.

Distance paddled on Friday was 22km and on Sunday 26km.
Paddlers : Mike Kingswood, Kirsty Bloom, Peter Sugden and Bill Scott.

23-24 July - Garvellachs

The bridge over the Atlantic took us onto Seil Island and we headed down to our meeting spot, Easdale. The island was having a Scarecrow Festival with several imaginative versions on display by the roadside. The creepiest however was at the entrance to the car park. A scarecrow dressed as a diver, suspended on a wire, giving it the appearance of swimming in air, hanging at head height with a backdrop of Easdale Island.
The wind was stronger than we would have liked and from the south east which was the direction we were headed. After a quick discussion on the beach, we decided to change our plan somewhat and head down the west side of Luing instead of the east in the hope we would gain a little shelter from Luing island itself. We set off out of the shelter of the harbour and a rib carrying tourists followed shortly after. They opened up to full throttle and described an arc around us in what appeared to be an effort to allow us space. Unfortunately the wake from the boat was very short and sharp, which certainly made us all pay attention. Luckily we were all sufficiently awake to be able to cope without incident but it was a taster of conditions we were to encounter at times for the rest of the day. The first part of the journey to the north of Luing was exposed to the wind and a little bumpy but we managed without a problem now we were awake. We then set off into the promised shelter and good conditions to our lunch spo by the islands south of Cullipool. Post lunch, the conditions looked favourable so we started to cross the Sound of Luing with the intention of reaching the Grey Dogs at slack. Shortly after we set off the wind got up; the conditions were officially very bumpy this time, thanks to wind against tide, and the 2.5km crossing seemed to have almost no let up. We pulled into some shelter about 1km north of the Dogs, had a quick discussion and changed plan again. We abandoned the fight into the wind to reach the Dogs and then onto the Garvellachs in what would have been an even bigger sea. Instead we headed north to find a beach that Tony and Elizabeth had camped on before, on a small island north of Lunga. The paddle with the wind behind us was much easier, almost a doddle. Our camp spot was great; we awarded T and E five stars and had a quiet night's sleep as the wind died away.

The next morning the conditions were much better. We were on the water for 9.30am and headed off to the northern most Garvellach with the intention of stopping for coffee on the biggest one, Garbh Eileach (hence the name) then head down the chain to Eileach an Naoimh, the one with the monastery on it, for lunch. The conditions were still lively although nothing like the day before. On reaching Dun Chonnuill we again changed plans, passed by the east side of Garbh Eileach and crossed through the channel there to the west side, again seeking shelter from the wind and waves, rounded the bottom of the chain and pulled up to the small inlet and beach on Eileach an Naoimh. Historic Scotland have been busy clearing undergrowth, putting up information boards and strimming the grass. It was the first time any of us had been since this had happened and we spent a couple of hours walking about the now accessible parts, able to fully imagine the lives of the monks more easily. The wind died down and we had a comparatively dull trip back to Easdale via Belnahua, except it wasn't dull at all; the scenery is splendid. Belnahua used to house a thriving community of nearly 200 workers who spent their time digging it up, quarrying for slate. It has been uninhabited since WW1. Our final journey back to Easdale was windless and calm. Quite a contrast to the morning before. What a difference a day makes. Someone should write a song about that! :-))

Thanks to the paddlers on the trip, Tony, Elizabeth, Cathy, Kirsty and thanks to Historic Scotland for clearing the monastic site for us.  

6-8 August - Sandaig Islands and Loch Hourn

Tues 6 Aug 2019 - Sound of Sleat
Gathering at Mallaig’s East Bay put-in point, we managed to pack and launch from the small amount of shore remaining at high tide and headed off towards the west side of Knoydart. With coffee/early lunch calling, we landed at Doune and then continued along the coast in pleasant sunny weather with a slight following breeze. After 14km we arrived at Rubha Ard Slisneach where the grass above the stony beach provided a huge area for camping. Tents were duly erected and the party took to the water again to paddle over to the Sandaig Islands. Rain came on during our passage and we arrived at the islands feeling distinctly damp. Formerly sheep grazed, the former camp spots are now well overgrown, vindicating our decision to camp earlier in the day. The rain relented as we got back, the wind died and the midges came out in force, socialising was therefore rather limited for the rest of the evening. 28km

Sunday 25th. August - Loch Etive

Nine of us met near Taynuilt pier to explore Loch Etive in perfect conditions.  Warm, sunny, clear views, what more could we ask for?  Very quickly four ospreys graced us with their presence, swooping about in the hope that there were gaps in the fish farm nets.  Their luck was out but ours was in seeing them before they head south to Africa.  We had a first coffee stop at Glen Noe, then went on to Glen Kinglass for lunch. Whilst Tony stayed with the boats, the rest of us headed up the glen to find the remains of a furnace, but without success.  With a road closure at Appin at 7pm, we had no time to paddle further north , so headed across the loch to Dail, then down the north side and back to our starting point.  Views of Cruachan were magnificent and also up to Ben Starav and Glencoe.   We all agreed it is a trip to be repeated as an overnighter, noting lots of good camping spots on both sides of the loch.
Distance paddled 22kms.

Paddlers Bill, Arthur, Gill, Chris, Joan, Sheila, Tony, Elizabeth and Ruth

7/8 Sept.  - Loch Sunart – (not Rona and Raasay)

The Rona/Raasay trip was shelved for this year due to technical issues (switching off and on again didn’t work) and was replaced with a very enjoyable exploration of a section of Loch Sunart.
Eight paddlers eventually (due to logistical parking issues) left from Laga Bay by 11:00 Saturday and headed across to the entrance to Loch Teacuis on the east  side of Charna on a Neap tide, relishing a calm, sunny day following a spell of much wind and rain.  At the narrows before Rahoy and the invisible (from the water) Dun we turned and found a lunch spot on the opposite shore near the Barr River, where numerous sea eagles entertained us. Paddling along on the west side of Eilean nan Eildean we checked out the tidal passage into Loch na Droma Buidhe for future reference.  Another group of paddlers were about to try going through and we later discovered they managed it, concluding that, on a neap tide, passage is potentially possible an hour either side of low water. We continued round the north side of Oransay and explored the deep inlet where an old settlement had existed. Ruins were spotted but there was no ideal landing so we continued round and into Loch na Droma Buidhe. There were choppy conditions at the entrance, but it soon calmed down. The planned camp site was occupied by three tents so we continued down the loch to consider an alternative spot that proved to be very satisfactory.  17 kms.

Sunday dawned calm and we were on the water ahead of schedule. Continuing up to the head of the loch we looked into the fish dam, which must have been a great source of fish back in the day.  Travelling along the south coast of Oransay and out into loch Sunart, the waters were calmer than the previous afternoon and it was decided to cross to Sligneach Mor. Out in the open the SE wind was creating some movement and we were treated to a group of porpoises gleefully heading west across our path.  We tracked around the back of the island and from there to the south coast of Ardnamurchan.
Journeying east into the wind slowed things down a little and we paddled into Glenmore Bay for a break. From there we continued into Glenborrodale Bay and found Elizabeth’s secret passage through to Rubha Beithe, then continued on, past Laga Bay, to the old fort at Dun Challain, with lunch and exploration, before returning to base at Laga. 19kms.

Paddlers : Tony, Elizabeth, Bill, Elvire, Gill, Arthur, Margie and Sheila

27-29 September - Skye

On Sunday the desire of the group was to set off from the campsite to Stein on a one way paddle. We shuttled cars and found the carpark at Stein bustling with the Sunday morning wild swimming group, we found a spot to park and returned to the campsite. From there we headed off up Loch Dunvegan past some nervous groups of seals and the grey hulk of Dunvegan Castle.  The wind picked up on the way to lunch at the Coral Beaches, where plenty of walkers were enjoying exploring the seashore in the very low tide. Some were clearly looking for clackers, (scallops) but were disappointed.  With the wind subsiding, the paddlers rounded the coastline and headed across Loch Bay to finish up a wonderful weekend of paddling at Stein. We went for a cup of tea at the Inn and found that it had been taken over this year by chef Paul Rankin. Will have to go back to eat sometime. Thanks to all who came on the paddle and helped to make it so memorable. Peter, Alison, John and Kirsty along with me, Mike. Commiserations to those that had to drop out, don't kick yourself too hard, there's always next year!

Paddlers: